March Newsletter 2018

Martyna and David have been with us for a year! What a great addition they both are to our already fabulous team. Happy anniversary :-)

I’ll be so glad to see the back of February. It really is ‘the cruellest month’ …. the seemingly endless grey can be wearing. It’s adding insult to injury to have the snow and below-freezing temperatures that we are dealing with now. However, let’s hope that once this final cold blast leaves us, we can look forward to spring. Snowdrops and other bulbs herald the start, but now there are herbaceous perennials finally making an appearance next to them, and the buds on trees and shrubs are poised and ready. Before we know it, there will be so much to do in our gardens that we’ll barely know where to start!

Here, the centre is filling up nicely after the leaner months. The first of the year’s larger shrubs and trees have arrived, including bamboos, Photinia, ornamental Cherries, Acers and Viburnum tinus, to name but a few. Due to the increasing concern about the devastating plant disease, xylella fastidiosa, which is wreaking such havoc in southern Europe, we are being extremely cautious about ordering any of the plants potentially affected by it, such as Olives, large Lavender and Rosemary, and Citrus trees. We will, of course, try to source them from certified safe producers, but are currently playing safe. This means that you will see fewer of these Mediterranean staples here this year. On the positive side, I believe it will encourage English growers to step in to fill the gap in the market in due course.

Some of the plant highlights that are available now include ….

• Spring bulbs: growing in pots, ready to plant out. Tulips, narcissi, muscari, fritillaria, scilla, lily of the valley and bluebell, are just some of them. So, if you forgot to plant bulbs last year, or need to add to those already planted, we have what you need.
• Herbs: currently we have rosemary, thyme, mint, parsley, sage, oregano and marjoram, but the range will increase as the weather warms up.
• Camellias: looking absolutely wonderful, all sporting flowers and full fat buds. This is a brilliant shrub if you have a shadier spot that needs a lift, but remember to use ericaceous compost in the planting hole.
• Magnolias: we have a truly fabulous range this year, having found a new supplier who specializes in magnolias and unusual trees and shrubs. This family-run nursery grow exceptional plants and we’re absolutely delighted to be able to offer them to you.
• David Austin Roses: both shrub roses and climbers are in this month, and it’s well worth getting them into the ground as soon as you can.
• Clematis: there are several varieties of evergreen early flowering armandii in stock, along with other varieties of evergreen Clematis. They will all start to flower very soon, and the scent they produce is gorgeous.
• Fruit trees/soft fruit: David has found a new supplier who we’re trying out for the first time. They grow a really good range of fruit trees, including espalier and fan grown trees, as well as soft fruit.
• House plants: Martyna continues to do us proud, and the tool shed is full to bursting with an amazing array of houseplants and all the sundries you need to keep them happy and healthy.There are some gorgeous new indoor pots too. As always, Martyna adds very informative labels to the plants, and she’s also produced an easy-to-follow crib sheet on how to make a terrarium for those wanting to give that a go.

It’s still too early for ready-grown vegetable plants (though if it warms up, we should start getting them in towards the end of the month), but we have a good range of seeds ready to plant now – herbs, vegetables and flowers – along with all the equipment you need to successfully ‘grow your own’, from propagators to plant labels to seed compost - all to be found in the main shop.

Also in the shop Valerie and I have sourced some lovely new things at the various trade shows we’ve recently attended.

We’ve found some stunning contemporary bird feeders and nesters, from Green and Blue (as featured in Gardens Illustrated last month), as well as stunning ‘brick’ insect and bee houses.

At the opposite end of the scale are the new bird ‘water stations’ – a brilliantly simple way to convert an old water bottle into a drinking spot for our feathered friends.

With the move away from single-use plastic, we’re introducing a fabulous range of re-usable coffee cups made from bamboo, rated as one of the best around by The Evening Standard, amongst others.They are called ecoffee cups and should be in store by the middle of the month.

Stalwart suppliers such as Dassie, nkuku, Garden Trading and Grand Illusions have all introduced new items that we’ll be featuring this year. Come and have a look when you can!

Last but not least, I want to remind you that when you get this month’s reward notification, there will be an expiry date applied. It’s generously 6 months, so no need to panic, but do please remember to bring your reward card in with you so that you can use your rewards and not lose out.

Sally is back soon, so I’ll be glad to pass the ‘Garden Tasks’ section back over to her next month, but for this month, it’s still my doing ….. it follows below, along with a section on house plants from Martyna.

Warmest regards

Karen

Garden jobs

More daylight and warmer temperatures mean finally plants start to wake up and show some life … hurray! Of course, it also means that conditions are right for unwanted plants and pests to appear as well. There is much to do, so make a start as soon as you can.

Take stock: March is a great month to look at your garden with fresh eyes, whilst it is still in its relatively skeletal state, and plant some more structure or evergreens if you feel there’s been something lacking over the winter months. The ground will soon be warm enough for you to do so, and the memory of what you’ve been looking out on all winter should still be fresh in your mind.

Clean up: Even if you did a scrupulous clean up and tidy in the autumn, you’ll still find there are things to do. Scrub down paths and patios that may have grown algae over the winter months (or use a long lasting chemical treatment), rake any remaining leaves away to allow air to circulate over precious plants and grass, clean out the pond, and fix any damaged trellis or fencing.

General maintenance

• As well as being a good time to plant new shrubs, it’s also the right time to move any that are in the wrong place. Dig up as much of a rootball as possible, ensuring the plant is well watered both before and after the move.
• If your soil is claggy with clay, dig in some well-rotted manure and grit to improve its structure.
• Prepare ground for vegetable growing by removing weeds and forking in fresh compost or manure. Cover it with black plastic if you want to warm it up for early sowing or planting.
• Hoe away any annual weeds that are making an appearance, and carefully dig out or chemically treat any perennial weeds daring to show themselves.
• Clean up hellebores by cutting away old leaves, which not only prevents disease (such as leaf spot) but exposes the lovely flowers for you to enjoy for a little longer.
• Cut back ornamental grasses and other perennials that were left over winter. Look closely at the base of them, and be amazed at the new growth starting to come through.
• Get plant supports in place where necessary – clumps of tall perennials will grow through the supports, all but hiding them in the summer, and remain upright rather than flopping over from the weight of flower heads, or from wind and rain. I leave my lovely rusty iron supports in place year round – they look great, add structure to an otherwise bare patch, and are useful location markers for herbaceous perennials that disappear over winter, such as Peony, Sedum, Helenium.
• Deadhead daffodils and narcissi when they have finished flowering, and then drench the leaves with a liquid feed mix in order to bulk up the bulb for next year’s display.
• Deadhead any bedding, such as pansies and violas, to encourage them to keep flowering for a few weeks yet.
• Even if you mulched in the autumn, most garden beds and borders benefit from a top-up layer now. It makes the garden look tidy, will inhibit weeds, and will keep moisture in. If you can see weeds appearing, take them out before mulching, and also ensure the soil is moist before you cover it.
• Start the war on slugs and snails! Whether you use chemicals or prefer to remain organically-minded, now is the time to start. Set some beer traps, scatter pellets sparingly, and top up the bird feeders (they are, after all, the most eco-friendly way of keeping the slug and snail population at bay).

Containers

• Give all your pots and containers the once-over: weed, deadhead, cut back, discard. Once you’ve done that, decide if it’s time to repot the contents into a larger pot (this should be done annually, or bi-annually if possible). If you can’t do that, scrape off as much existing soil as possible from the top of the container, and add a layer of fresh compost.
• Finish off with a mulch of fine horticultural grit to help deter slugs and snails.
• Top up raised beds and containers with fresh compost or topsoil.

Pruning

• Shrubs: Those grown for the colour of young stems (such as Cornus, Salix (willow) and some Eucalyptus) should be cut back hard to allow stems to grow for next winter. Leaving a few stems will allow some early leaf growth that will support the rest of the plant.
• Summer flowering shrubs that flower on the new growth later in the year (such as Buddlleja) can be cut right back.

(You can keep the woody prunings from both of the above to use as plant supports around the garden, but remember that some cuttings may take root and start growing!)

• Roses: Early spring is the right time to prune shrub and patio roses, before the leaves appear. The aim is to create a strong open framework which allows good airflow and helps prevent fungal disease. First, remove any dead or diseased stems, and then cut some of the oldest stems right down to the ground. The remaining stems should be cut down by between a quarter and half, with a view to achieving a well-balanced shape when the plant grows again. Always make a slanting cut just above an outward-facing bud, sloping away from the bud. After pruning, water well; apply a granular rose fertiliser and a layer of mulch. The mulch will replace nutrients and help prevent the recurrence of blackspot.
• Prune overgrown climbers before they start fully into growth. Prune back to just above visible buds, and remove dead wood. Honeysuckle, ivy, winter jasmine and other vigorous plants can be cut hard back.
• Prune early flowering clematis once the flowers are finished and before they start active growth. See our clematis care and clematis pruning notes for further details.
• Hydrangeas can be pruned back to the first set of strong buds below last year’s faded flowers. Also remove a few of the oldest stems at the base.
• Prune autumn fruiting raspberry canes down to encourage new canes.

It’s good gardening practice to give newly pruned plants a boost of nutrients as soon as possible after they’ve been chopped. A liquid or granular feed, and/or mulching with good compost or manure will ensure they recover from any shock and surge into new growth.

Growing from seed

It should be really easy, right? But rookie mistakes can leave you deflated and disappointed, especially if growing from seed is a new experience for you. Follow these rules, and you’ll reap the rewards (excuse the pun). Pick up a ‘Success with Seeds’ leaflet you when you next visit.

• Most seeds are easy to germinate if they have the right combination of water, air, light/dark and warmth. Use good quality seeds, clean equipment, seed compost and always read the notes on the individual seed pack to understand what’s needed.
• Some seeds will germinate in a few days, others may take a couple of weeks. Read the label to know what to expect, and plan ahead with that knowledge.
• Using a propagator to start seeds off can help enormously. The cover ensures fluctuations in temperature are reduced. If you want to be sure of the best result, use a heated propagator.
• Always label trays and pots, especially if you are growing several varieties in one tray!
• Use seed compost which is low in nutrients and a fine consistency (multipurpose is too rich in nutrients for tiny seeds). You may find it easier to sow directly into modules or root trainers, especially for plants which don't like having their roots disturbed when it’s time to pot them on or plant them out.
• A good trick with quick growing herbs and vegetables is to grow them in succession, which extends the harvesting season significantly. Spinach, salad crops, rocket, basil and coriander are all examples of seeds which can be sown several times, 2 or 3 weeks apart, over the same bit of soil. Leave enough space to do this.
• Annuals are best sown in informal drifts, in ground which isn’t too rich - don’t add manure or garden compost because you’ll end up with lots of soft growth and few flowers. Prepare the ground by forking over and then raking it to a fine tilth, before sowing the seeds. Plant in drills, created by dragging a bamboo cane or similar across the prepared soil. I find using a ‘criss-cross’ pattern of drills creates the illusion of a wonderfully informal drift by the time the plants are flowering, but allows easy identification of desired plants vs weeds as they first come up. Follow the packet instructions for thinning out, and look forward to a lovely splash of colour through the summer.

Planting

Unless your ground is waterlogged (in which case hold off putting in new plants until it's dried out a bit) or frozen! March is an absolutely ideal month to plant just about anything.

It can be tempting to over-plant, but a wise gardener always resists this temptation and instead allows room for growth round each new plant that is introduced.

• Plant apple, pear, cherry, plum and other fruit trees. Hard as it is to do, young fruit trees should have flowers pinched out in the first year to divert the energy into creating a good root system instead of producing fruit.
• Plant soft fruit bushes: nothing quite beats picking your own currants, blueberries, blackberries, gooseberries or raspberries, warmed by the sun, from your own garden.
• Lift and divide congested herbaceous perennials as they start to show some growth. Plants such as Alchemilla mollis, Euphorbia and Sedum all really benefit from doing so. Dig up the clump after watering well, and with a swift sharp cut of your spade, chop the clump into two, three or four pieces, before replanting in their new positions. Using some mycorrhizal fungi or bonemeal at the base of the planting hole will ensure the roots get off to a good start. Water them in well.
• Ensure newly planted trees are staked appropriately. When grown in pots, young trees can’t put down tap roots, so need the support of a stake for the first year or so in the ground whilst they develop this stabilizing root system. It’s important that the stake does not hold the entire tree completely rigid, though – it should only come about ½ way up the trunk. The movement created by wind through the top of the tree is what sends signals to the roots to get down deeper.

Lawns

• Get the lawnmower cleaned up and serviced if necessary as grass will begin growing this month! Set the blades at a high level for the first few cuts and ensure you dispose of all clippings so that air, rain and fertiliser can penetrate the newly cut turf.
• Repair any bare patches and tidy the edges.
• Apply a layer of lawn dressing or a spring fertiliser to nourish and rejuvenate your lawn.
• This is a good month to lay new turf, as well as re-seed an existing lawn. The key (as in so many things) is thorough preparation. See our lawn laying information sheet.
• If you want to grow a lawn from seed, do the preparatory work now so that the ground can settle before sowing later on.

Pests and disease

• Young plant growth is vulnerable to slugs and snails. Protect with a sparse scattering of slug pellets or bait, a line of coarse sand, copper rings or tape, or slug traps baited with beer. A mulch of bark or strulch around precious plants may help, as will using coffee grounds or crushed shells.
• Look out for lily beetle, vine weevil and other pests. Keep an eye out for aphid attacks. Broad beans, which are one of the earlier crops to sow, are particularly susceptible to black fly. It’s too early for aphid predators such as ladybirds to be doing their job, so you’ll have to treat aphid infestations with an appropriate spray insecticide, checking the label for food safety. Think about companion or sacrificial planting near your edible crops.
• Peach leaf curl is an unsightly fungus that can affect peaches, nectarines, apricots, almonds and ornamental cherries. The chemical compounds previously available for the treatment of this nasty problem are no longer on the market. However, last year I came across a method being used by a French smallholder I met that apparently is foolproof …. she absolutely swore it worked, even if it sounds a bit bonkers. Gently crush a few eggshells and put them in a mesh/netting bag of some kind (such as you’d buy satsumas in). Hang this from one of the lower branches of your tree. That’s it! I’m a great believer in old wives’ tales generally having a good dollop of reason behind them, even if we can’t figure out how or why. This one seems to be a case in point. Follow this link for more anecdotal confirmation of its efficacy.
  https://www.frenchentree.com/france-forum/topic/egg-shells-in-fruit-trees/

Protect against frost

• We may have cold, frosty nights through March and April, so protect young plants if low temperatures are forecast. Cloches, fleece, or cut down plastic bottles can provide cover.
• If possible, protect fruit blossom with fleece if frost threatens.
• Tender herbs can be kept inside on a windowsill in the sun, and placed or planted outside when the temperatures are kinder.

Wildlife

• Birds are still in need of food and water. Keep the feeders full and a fresh supply of water available, in view of the house so that you can enjoy them.
• Birds will start looking for nest sites, so be aware of them when pruning hedges and shrubs, and put a nesting box up if you haven’t got one up already.
• Encourage other wildlife into your garden to help manage the pest populations. Leave some wood for beetles to nest in, and think about a small pond to encourage frogs, both of whom enjoy eating slugs!
• Plant bee and butterfly friendly plants to encourage pollinators into the garden in the coming months.

Phew! I hope this wasn’t too daunting a list for you. Just remember, the most important thing of all is to spend time in your garden enjoying it ….

Karen

House Plants

Perfect plants for low-light conditions

Do not despair if your house has only north or east-facing windows, or if your bedroom does not get much sunlight - there are still plenty of options to bring the greenery indoors and enliven that dark corner in your room!

Below is a list of houseplants that will still grow beautifully in low-light, shady locations.

• Dracena (Dragon tree) This plant is a low-maintenance option for a shadier spot. It features a slim trunk and a fan of upright, narrow leaves. It requires watering only when the top of the compost feels dry to touch.
• Sanseveria (Mother-in-law’s tongue) A slow growing sculptural plant which, in addition to being able to withstand various light conditions, is a great air-purifier, creating oxygen at night (perfect for that dark bedroom!)
• Zamioculcas (Z-Z plant) The Z-Z plant is very easy to look after! It will adapt to bright or shady locations and astonish you with its extremely shiny, leathery-like leaves.
• Spathiphillum (Peace Lily) Another spectacular air-purifier, this graceful plant with large dark green leaves will also produce lovely delicate white flowers.
• Aglaonema (Chinese evergreen) Anglaonema comes in many varieties, giving you an option to choose that perfect foliage to match your décor! Leaf colours can vary from silver, pink or white-speckled green. This plant is slow growing, which makes it a perfect table top or shelf decoration.
• Philodendron Philodendrons are best suited to moderate or low-light conditions but will not withstand very dark spots. There are many varieties to choose from, like the ever popular Monstera (Cheese plant), and trailing Philodendron Brazil (with its leaves speckled in light green tones). Always allow the top of the compost of your philodendron to dry out between waterings, only giving it a drink every ten days or so.
• Calathea Calathea is one of the most beautiful foliage plants for your home. It will enjoy a shady spot without direct light but requires its soil to be kept evenly moist.

I try to ensure there is always a stock of houseplants for shady conditions, so please come and see what is in the shop if you fancy brightening up that dark corner.

Martyna