April 2014 Newsletter

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It seems appropriate that this month, the official start of spring, I should tell you that we are now in our 10^th year as your local garden centre.
Incredible, eh?! It really is hard to believe that it was back in 2004 that we first opened our gates … I clearly remember how excited, terrified and overwhelmed we felt; but - thanks to you - we’re still here even after everything that the elements and the economy have thrown at us! I hope this will be a year of real celebration, sunshine and fun, and look forward to welcoming you many times over the coming months.

But, boy, oh, boy … it seems that whenever I sit down to write my March newsletter, we have suffered the most extreme weather. Horrid as all the rain and wind has been, and catastrophic as it is for so much of the country, if there is a silver lining to be found it is that at least we’re not under massive drifts of snow, as we were at this time last year. I’m sure that you, like me, may have lost bits of fence or trellis at the very least, and possibly large shrubs or even trees, in the battering we have endured. It will take a while to get everything back to normal again, but with the mild temperatures we’ve had, at least we can all finally see the signs of spring. The snow drops have been delightful this year, and I’ve spotted my Snake’s Head Fritillaries making an appearance under the apple tree. The narcissi are nicely showing colour, and the bluebells are well on their way, as are the tulips and alliums. I’ve even heard the first mating calls of the frogs, so look forward to scooping jars of frogspawn from the pond to pass on to the local primary school in the near future.

The fact that we’ve had such temperate weather means that we can all get going on seed planting, and this spring we have a completely new range of flower seeds to offer you from the Sarah Raven collection. The seed stand is just inside the shop, and I’m sure you’ll be as inspired as we have been by the wealth of delightful options, ranging from those plants we all know and love such as Nasturtiums and Poppies, to some that are lesser known, such as Amni majus, Bells of Ireland and Didiscus Blue Lace. Come by and have a look soon. We also have the fabulous range of Franchi vegetable, salad and herb seeds. For our younger customers, we have a selection of ‘Little Gardeners’ seeds, aimed at 3-11 year olds, which tie in with Key Stage 2 at school.

In the section that follows, Sally has some useful tips on seed sowing for you, and in the shop we have all you need to help you succeed, from propagators to plant labels to seed compost.

The centre is filling up nicely now after the leaner, emptier months. Fruit trees and the first of the soft fruit bushes are in, as is the first tranche of David Austin roses. Our display of Camellias is looking wonderful, all sporting full fat buds. This is a brilliant shrub if you have a darkish spot that you can't think what to fill with. Also newly in are the larger shrubs and trees from Italy, and – at last! – we’re starting to get in bedding plants and herbs, as well as a lovely wide range of herbaceous perennials.

We’re branching into house plants on a larger scale too this year, which will be housed mainly in the Vintage Shed, so if you have a window sill or shelf that could do with a bit of greenery in your house, you know where to come.

As the weather in February was so awful, and getting out into our gardens such a challenge, we’ve decided to extend our February offer into March so that more of you can take advantage of it ….

Well-rotted horse manure – buy 3, get 4^th free

If you haven’t discovered the benefits of digging this black gold into your beds and borders, as well as on your vegetable patch, take advantage of this offer now to find out just how much better all your plants will perform with this boost of nutrients in the soil.

Oh – a last thing to mention before I hand over to Sally: I have sourced lots of new items for the shop, and amongst them is a wonderful French product; Marius Fabre liquid black soap with olive oil. This is a by product of the olive oil process – the gunk that is left behind after pressing is filtered and the resulting … err …. goo (can’t think of another word for it!) has many uses, notably as a natural defence against greenfly, mealybugs, red spider mite and other garden nasties. Just dilute with water and spray onto affected plant, for a safe and organic alternative to chemical pesticides. It is also the most brilliant multi-purpose cleaner. I’ve been trying it out at home, and am really impressed with it. I’m reliably informed that many French women even use it as a facial cleanser!

I’ll pass over to Sally now, but I hope that this finds you as eager to get out and start work on your garden as I am, and look forward to welcoming you back at the garden centre very soon.

Warmest regards

Karen

PS I’ve just heard that we might be in for a bit of a cold snap again, so two things we have to help – fleece to protect your plants, and slow burning olive wood to keep you warm

Garden jobs for April 2014

We are so lucky that we aren't flooded in our locale, but most of our gardens are pretty sodden. At least when you apply a good layer of mulch in the next month or two, you will be trapping moisture! I'm enjoying seeing lots of snowdrops, crocus and aconites as I travel around, and tulips are already appearing in my containers.

Here are some jobs to be getting on with in the next few weeks.

Two top jobs for this March:

1. Tend to the lawn: typically, grass will begin growing this month. Set the blades at a high level for the first few cuts and ensure you dispose of all clippings so that air, rain and fertiliser can penetrate the newly cut turf. Repair any bare patches and tidy the edges to get off to a good start. If areas of the lawn are sodden, use a garden fork to make drainage holes in impacted soil. Apply a layer of lawn dressing, sand or a spring fertiliser to nourish and rejuvenate your lawn.

2. Mulch! A layer of mulch can make the garden look tidy and save on weeding later in the year, and a 5cm layer on top of the soil will help moisture retention. Good mulch such as well rotted horse manure will gradually be worked down into the soil and improve the soil structure, resulting in better plants if you get into this habit every year. Two things to note: weed before you put the mulch down and make sure that the soil is warm and moist.

1. Growing vegetables, herbs and flowers from seed

Most seeds are easy to germinate if they have the right combination of water, air, light/dark and warmth. Use good quality seeds, clean equipment and specialised seed compost. Always read the notes on the seed pack to understand what’s needed, but here are some general points:

• To sow seed indoors, use a propagator, heated if necessary, or a seed tray with a cover. Use seed compost, which is low in nutrients and a fine consistency. You may find it easier to sow directly into modules, especially for plants which don't like having their roots disturbed. Use a tamper to level the compost in the tray.
• Always label trays and pots of seedlings – get the labels ready before you start, especially if sowing more than one type, to avoid muddling them up!
• When seedlings have their second pair of leaves, prick them out into new trays. As they grow on and develop into stronger plants, replant them into larger pots filled with potting compost.
• Harden off indoor raised seedlings before planting outside, to prepare them for lower temperatures and air movement. This is done either in a cold frame, or by moving them outside during the day and back in at night.
• A lot of seeds can be sown directly outside in March and April. Check the packs. As a general rule, rake the patch of ground, remove large stones and weeds. Then follow the instructions to scatter the seeds in a broadcast fashion, or space them out in rows. Cover with a think sprinkling of soil and water as directed.

2. General maintenance

• March is a good month to lay new turf.
• Deadhead pansies and violas regularly and the show may well continue through spring into early summer.
• Deadhead fading bulbs such as daffodils, but let the leaves die down as this is important for flower production next year. Drench the leaves with a foliar feed to bulk up the bulb ready for next year.
• Indoor forced bulbs such as hyacinth and narcissi can be planted out into the garden.
• Use your hoe on early weeds, as they will take hold rapidly if not dealt with swiftly.
• Cut back ornamental grasses and other perennials left for winter interest to make room for new growth.
• Cut old leaves off hellebores to expose the flowers and eliminate disease such as leaf spot.
• Feed and mulch fruit trees and shrubs.
• Spray peaches, nectarines and plums to avoid peach leaf curl.
• Dig in horse manure or good compost to beds prior to planting, and as a top dressing.
• Improve drainage in heavy soils by digging in organic matter and sharp sand or grit.
• As herbaceous perennials start to emerge, protect them from slugs and snails, and get plant supports in position.
• Clear your pond of accumulated muck at the bottom in readiness for the frog fiesta!

3. Planting

• Containerised trees can be planted at any time of year, as long as they are cared for, but putting them in when they are dormant is preferable. Support newly planted trees with a tree stake and rubber tie.
• Fruit trees and bushes will provide lots of tasty puddings, jams and snacks. Raspberries, blackberries, black currants, gooseberries and blueberries (need ericaceous compost) can all be planted now, a lot of them in containers if you don’t have a patch in the garden. Fruit trees should have any flowers pinched out in the first year to encourage a good root system.
• Shrubs, climbers, roses, herbaceous perennials – March is a good time to plant many things.
• If the ground is waterlogged, hold off planting new plants until it's dried out a bit. Keeping them in their pots for a while is fine.

4. Pruning

• Early spring is the right time to prune shrub and patio roses, before the leaves appear. The aim is to create a strong open framework which allows good airflow and helps prevent fungal disease. First, remove any dead or diseased stems, and then cut some of the oldest stems right down to the ground. The remaining stems should be cut down by between a quarter and half, with a view to achieving a well balanced shape when the plant grows again. Always make a slanting cut just above an outward-facing bud, sloping away from the bud. After pruning, water well; apply a granular rose fertiliser and a layer of mulch.
• Shrubs grown for the colour of young stems (such as Cornus, Salix (willow) and some Eucalyptus) should be cut back hard to allow stems to grow for next winter.
• Winter flowering shrubs like Hamamelis can be cut back once the flowers have faded.
• Summer flowering shrubs that flower on the new wood later in the year, such as Buddlleja, can be cut right back. Keep the woody prunings to use as plant supports around the garden.
• Hydrangea macrophylla cultivars can be pruned back to the first set of strong buds below last years faded flowers. Also remove a few of the oldest stems at the base.
• After pruning always apply a granular fertiliser or mulch around the base of the plant.

6. Protect against frost

We may have cold, frosty nights through March and April, so protect young plants if low temperatures are forecast. Cloches, fleece, or cut down plastic bottles can provide cover. Cloches can also be used to warm up patches of soil ready for outdoor sowing. If possible, protect fruit blossom with fleece if frost threatens. Tender herbs can be kept inside on a windowsill in the sun, and placed or planted outside when the temperatures are kinder.

7. Pests and disease

Young plant growth is vulnerable to slug and snail damage. Protect with slug pellets or bait, a line of coarse sand, copper rings or tape, or slug traps baited with beer. Early action pays dividends. A mulch of bark around precious plants may help to deter slugs and snails.

Keep an eye out for aphid attacks. Broad beans, which are one of the earlier crops to sow, are particularly susceptible to black fly. There aren’t many aphid predators such as ladybirds around in early spring, so treat with an appropriate spray insecticide, checking the label for food safety.

8. Wildlife

Birds are still in need of food and water. Keep the feeders full and a fresh supply of water, in view of the house so that you can enjoy them.

I hope that we begin to see stronger signs of Spring during the month. I’m looking forward to the longer days.

See you next month

Sally